Old 20-08-2009, 10:31 PM   #1
pandaah
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Default 1g-gte performance mods..

k besides doing a dumppipe and higher flowing exhausts, pod, and intercooler.. just a few tips nd shit i was thinking about doing to my 1g-gte but i thort id ask to see if someone has blown up theres or doesnt think its a good idea...

k, first just how restrictive is the standard dumppipe?

and now, i see people adding 1g-ge cams in the turbo engines, just wondering if this makes a decent difference?.. or any at all?

boostwise.. wats the limit?.. bout 12psi?.. are the standard ct12's prone to rear turbine failure?..

timing, i was thinking since im running 98 octane petrol ONLY, i could bump the timing up from 10 to 13ish.. possibly 15degrees, maybe tone it down a little bit in the blistering summer weather we have in perth..

and whats the go with plumbing a bleed valve in the twin turbo setup.. im assuming you t-piece the 2 wastegate vacuum lines, run those two vacuum lines into a t-piece and then run the 3rd vacuum line into the bleed valve?..

cheers =)
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Old 20-08-2009, 11:19 PM   #2
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The standards CT12's are Strong, but boosting over 14 PSI Is useless as it's way out of the efficiency range, they just cannot flow enough air. Turbines are steel wheel so they hold up pretty well, people have been running 18 PSI for ages without problems, I wouldn't go anymore than 14 though.

For the bleed valve, Yes T Piece the 2 wastegate lines together then run to a boost controller, then from boost controller T Piece again back into turbo's.

The way I've done it though is I blocked one of the turbine nipples and just T pieced one Turbine outlet ran to boost controller then T piece to both actuators, either way works.

But it's so hard to get the hoses on you will probably need some small metal tubing so you can use that to join the existing hoses to your vacuum lines coming from the boost controller and T piecies.

Since the 1g-gte's run very rich, using a SAFC to lean out the mixtures does help.
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Old 21-08-2009, 12:36 AM   #3
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oh ok so 14psi is probly there max boost?.. thats pritty good to know i got told somewhere along the lines there were ceramic wheeled... in that case id probly boost it to 1bar and see how the efficiency is on the dyno

safc is a mod i know about but i was more thinkin bout getting an EMS stinger instead cos i know itll fit a different engine later so spending money on an ecu isnt a problem for me cos it will be kept


is there any other turbos are all that bolt up to the 1g manifolds?
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Old 21-08-2009, 04:23 AM   #4
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The only ones I can think of are the Blitz BAG turbo's, which aren't made anymore and hard to find.
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Old 21-08-2009, 06:08 AM   #5
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My car came with boost controler running 1 bar on high (.5 on low)
It also came with AFM control ECU Im told it helps add fuel with higher pressures
but this doesnt do much do to dump pipe restrictions
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Old 21-08-2009, 10:47 AM   #6
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yeh i think thats for higher horsepower situations dude but your right.. getting a rising rate fuel pressure regulator will insure you get lots of fuel even when your injectors are working there ass off under high boost situations =)
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Old 21-08-2009, 03:33 PM   #7
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im sure i saw some blitz bag turbo's on toymods for sale a short time ago for $300 but i cant seem to find the thread now
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Old 21-08-2009, 05:35 PM   #8
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ahh ok.. im gunna do some research into this, i bet you some where along the lines ive got a contact who can hook me up so i can mount 2x T28BB turbos off an s15 onto the soarer... run 17psi or something...

ill be dyno'ing pritty much every mod if i can find the right guy to give me dyno runs for cheap since ive got a job now, lucky im a mechanic again so the workshop is my oyster =)
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Old 21-08-2009, 05:58 PM   #9
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id say that would be quite laggy seven had gtr turbo's and i dont think they went to well till like 5000rpm maybe look aroung for a higflowed ct26 or t3t4
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Old 21-08-2009, 07:06 PM   #10
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Probably have too much lag with larger twins, I'd go for a single turbo, maybe a TD05.
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Old 21-08-2009, 08:51 PM   #11
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maybe twin t25's then.. wonder the different in size between t25 and ct12.. i know that t25's can make about 15 - 16psi tho
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Old 21-08-2009, 09:05 PM   #12
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Just go with a responsive single dude. Any non stock twin setup is going to cost you an arm and a leg unless you do everything yourself. The 1g will only take so much punishment in unopened format as well so unless you plan on spending big in that area I would just work along finding the most responsive setup you can.
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Old 21-08-2009, 11:17 PM   #13
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hm i guess your right dude.. i would be doing everything myself im a mechanic but yeh your right... it all comes down to spending money on the 1ggte which i dont really wanna do.. like single turbo manifold and yada yada.... id rather buy a 2jz..

lol i jus get caught up in the excitement... but 1bar of boost doesnt sound bad to me with support mods.. =)
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Old 22-08-2009, 06:53 AM   #14
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if you dont want to spend much just make a y pipe and find a steel wheel turbo to suit 1 bar is easy my auto soarer was good with t3t4 on all the way up to boost cut with the stock gz20 fmic too. once i get the fueling sorted i want to run a 1 bar on my ge motor.;
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Old 22-08-2009, 09:47 AM   #15
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theres a trust manifold on ebay at the moment about $700 i think. you could get a t04e as im told they are quite the good match for the 1g and they arent that pricey. even a kkr430 from otomoto would be good start.

Either way dont bother with twins. y pipe and a ct26 is the cheapest route. but if you can get rid of that chunky cast manifold you will save some weight too.
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Old 22-08-2009, 11:24 AM   #16
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yeh i was thinkin the stock manifold would be a little restrictive.. also some interesting points i found on the net lastnite thanks to z2tt's directions and google translate..

k the jap forums said....

1g-ge cams are 240 degrees instead of 224 for exhaust and 228 for inlet on the 1g-gte

1g-ge thermostat is 82 degrees instead of 88 in the 1g-gte

they also said you could run 15 degrees like i said (see i know my shit =P ) they even said you could run a whopping 18.5 degrees but im assuming thats cos there highest fuel is better than 98 octane

also i couldnt make out wtf they were talking bout, but the best description i got was to take off the butterfly things in the intake that open and close?.. maybe there a little restrictive or something?....

and my own recommendation would be getting a lightened flywheel
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Old 22-08-2009, 11:53 AM   #17
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Instead of just advancing the base timing, better get some sort of Management like a Xede that control timing where its needed.
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Old 22-08-2009, 01:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pandaah View Post
yeh i was thinkin the stock manifold would be a little restrictive.. also some interesting points i found on the net lastnite thanks to z2tt's directions and google translate..

k the jap forums said....

1g-ge cams are 240 degrees instead of 224 for exhaust and 228 for inlet on the 1g-gte

1g-ge thermostat is 82 degrees instead of 88 in the 1g-gte

they also said you could run 15 degrees like i said (see i know my shit =P ) they even said you could run a whopping 18.5 degrees but im assuming thats cos there highest fuel is better than 98 octane

also i couldnt make out wtf they were talking bout, but the best description i got was to take off the butterfly things in the intake that open and close?.. maybe there a little restrictive or something?....

and my own recommendation would be getting a lightened flywheel
those butterfly things they are talking about is the tvis, which is designed to create a bit more low down torque. theres been a fair bit of discussion on wether its worth keeping or not some say if its setup right it can be helpfull on and off boost. but i would assume if you run high amounts of boost it would be worth removing.

i got a lightened flywheel with my os giken twin plate, makes heaps of difference in response on the ol 1g
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Old 22-08-2009, 02:16 PM   #19
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sounds like a good upgrade then, considering i can do it at work free might have to chuck one in =P ...
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Old 22-08-2009, 08:56 PM   #20
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You should totally make 2 :P
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